October 10 Antwerp

We were ambivalent about going to Antwerp but I am so glad we decided to go. The city has the same lovely central square as other Belgian cities with magnificent town halls and guild buildings. But the layout is more open – modern? – and allows you to step back an appreciate it all.

We are getting very accomplished navigating the metro, train and tram systems. Plus, the Belgian train stations have lots of people around just to help you out. They are wonderful. They must all speak 10 languages because they help everyone. The only problem is that a train to Antwerp that departs at 10:00 might leave from track 2 while a train that leaves for Antwerp at 10:12 uses track 23. So, you can not find your way to track x and – if you miss the train – just wait for the next one. So, we choose the train that will leave in 10-15 minutes instead of the one that leaves in 5.

Another thing we have noticed about the trains. We have now taken a train round trip to Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp. Of those 6 rides only one time has anyone asked to see our ticket. And, that time we were told that we had second class tickets and had to move out of the first class section or pay more.

Anyway, off to Antwerp and it’s huge and beautiful train station. On multiple levels and directions it is a magnificent space.

The Rick Steves walk started at the station and led into town. The initial blocks were pedestrian shopping areas. We were getting hungry and had two ideas. One was the Horta Cafe – a restaurant in a Horta designed building. The other was Balls of Glory, a recommended chain serving meatballs that are like tennis balls filled with sauce. Although of a totally different class of dining experiences the two were only a block apart. Horta came first and we immediately wanted to eat there. We shared a mussel soup and Niçoise salad and both were delicious. After lunch we walked further and bought take out meatballs to have for dinner back in Brussels.

We headed for the river and took a rest in a park nearby. I wanted to visit the Red Line museum – the site of many who were headed to Ellis Island. After quite a long walk we realized that we were not going to arrive until almost closing so we had to give it up. Having seen churches and Rubens, we opted to shop. Catching a tram back to the center of the commercial area we popped into places that sold clothes way beyond our budget and inappropriate for our lifestyles. As they were closing and we were making our way back to the train station we came across one shop with open doors and a high top with champagne and chocolate. We walked in and were immediately given a glass of bubbly and invited to look around. We looked but did not buy, However, the staff were very interested in what we had and had not seen in Belgium and gave us a suggestion for a place in the mountains, Next trip!

Back again to Brussels and Stephanie’s home that has become ours on loan.

Heated up the meatballs and the accompanying mashed potatoes (with leek and carrot), added dressing to the salad, and opened a bottle of Provençal wine from Bernadette. All was very good and filling.

Catching some very depressing news about Israel and Jews and Palestines outside of the area. And, destruction in Afghanistan. The Sudan. The Armenians. How lucky are we to have been born into a relatively peaceful and affluent place. We all may be created equal but from our birth on our opportunities are not.



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