September 8, Sarlat & Grotte de Font-de-Gaume

We did not have reservations for any of the ancient caves with paintings but Rick said that we could arrive early to get two of the 52 daily slots only for those who turn up in person. So, we got up early and headed off hoping to get breakfast while we waited in line. It was actually nice to be out and about early. Very quiet and great light. We drove to the intersection of D47 and D48 as instructed and there was no one there. There was a parking lot but no cars and benches outside the entrance but no one sitting. Our first thought was that we had come on a day that the cave was closed. But, the signs said that it should be open. After a few minutes a man arrived and spoke some English. He had visited the week before but had made a reservation online. He was returning to buy something in the gift shop for his wife. I took out my phone and visited the web site. It said that the reservation function was not working. So, we waited.

The Grotte entrance opened at 9:30. We had arrive at 8:30. In that hour about 6 people came. Most had reservations but not all. So, at 9:35 we were able to buy tickets for the 10:00 tour – in French. We took it. The tour lasted about an hour and was really very special. Seeing these 15,000 year old paintings was almost spiritual. I took a non-flash photo before I was told that it was not allowed. So, I do not have the best. One must go. Admission is by tour only and limited to 78 per day. This is because the carbon dioxide from ones breath affects the environment in a damaging way.

Red and black were the colors available from minerals. I got this photo before being told no photos. Black bison on the left and red on the right. What we saw were in pairs like this.

Once the tour was over we headed into Sarlat-la-Caneda for brunch and sightseeing. Parking took some time and we couldn’t remember the name of the recommended place for brunch. So, I used Google to search the town and we found a wonderful place. We both had the peach and burrata toast. It was great. It took a while to get it and later the owner stopped at our table to ask how we liked our food and to explain that the peaches are from his garden and he grills them on order – hence the delay.

We walked around town where every other store was selling fois gras in cans and walnuts in many forms. Sarlat is a charming place and deserved more time than we could spend.



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