September 7, La Roque-Gageac / The Dordogne

We planned to visit Chateaux Chenonceau on the way out of town. Rick Steves said to arrive by opening at 9:00 so we planned to leave at 9 since it is off season. But, as is our way we left closer to 10. And, sure enough the place was full of tour groups who would fill an entire room. Luckily there is no prescribed route through the house so we were able to jog around and avoid most of the crowds. On the walk from parking to the castle we toured the food and flower gardens.

Chenonceau looks like the home of a princess and here we are!

The real “princess” of Chenonceau was Diane de Poitiers, mistress of Francois I. He left it to her in perpetuity. But, when he died his wife, Catherine de Medici, evicted Diane and took it for herself. (Later in Sarlat we would learn that Catherine had an affair with the Bishop of Sarlat.)

Both women added to the castle and grounds. Diane added an extension bridge to be able to cross the river with goods without a boat. Catherine put rooms over the bridge to house royalty and a large ballroom/gallery. A later occupant, Madam Dupin, saved the chapel during the French revolution by filling it with wood obscuring any signs of religion or royalty.

By the time we left the castle, Valerie was overdue for cafe. But, the line for food was very long. So, we headed on the road assuming we could make a quick stop along the way. Unfortunately, we drove through town after town with nothing open. Everything is dead from 12:30-3:00. But, we found a very cute little park where we had a picnic. Luckily we had packed food. Cheese, grapes, plums, hard boiled eggs, olives and crackers. Very nice.

We arrived at La Belle E’toille about 10 minutes before our 7:00 reservation. We were eating and sleeping there. Luckily there is only one seating per night and we were told that we could come to dinner any time before 8:30. So, time to unpack and clean up for an excellent dinner.