A day of rest, mostly for David’s leg, a bit of laundry, and a stroll around Campo de’ Fiori square. It is lined on three sides with restaurants and outdoor tables and waiters importuning passers by to eat, drink, and be merry. Crowded, bustling.

A dour, pensive, near Calvinistic statue of Giordano Bruno stands atop a monument in the middle of the square, where he was burned as a heretic in 1600. He also wanted, along with various Freemasons and students at the time, to get the pope out of Rome.

We window shop in small stores lining the narrow streets that radiate off the square — buy nothing — and find the Ditirambo Restaurant, where we have reservations thanks to Ginevra. Wonderful meal. First serious Negroni of the trip. When we order the Palladino Barolo Ornato, our waitress pauses, regards us anew, says to herself, “Ahhh, mmmm. So.”

Vici again!

A pleasant walk home a few inches above the cobbles, buoyed by our excess spirits.