Up, eat and grab a cab to centro SMA for a guided tour that gathers under the beautifully trimmed trees in the square in front of the Parroquia. Our guide, Dali (no relation), who graduated from the university in Guanajuato, delivers an impeccable English stream of deep knowledge about the art, architecture, history, and politics of everything he shows us. The figure of Christ on the cross was made in 1575 using traditional Chichimeca materials—corn stalks and corn starch.

Dali rounds a corner of the square and leads us to the largest mansion in centro: the neoclassical Casa del Mayorazgo de La Canal, built in the late 18th century for Manuel Tomás de la Canal y Bueno de Baeza (I don’t mean to stereotype but native Hispanic speakers seem to like impressively long names … and with a name that big, you gotta have a big house). Half a large city block now owned by the Bank of Mexico. REALLY impressive doors:

Dali basically follows the same path as Debra on Day 1 in SMA but, when we get to the Templo de San Francisco de Asis, we must stop at the entrance because a funeral is being held for Bob Thieman, the principal owner of Hanks New Orleans Cafe and Oyster Bar — called Harry’s when it opened in 1999 and, according to Beverly, the most popular pick-up joint in town. We move on to other churches, gardens, houses, markets and meander, eventually to the end of the tour so that Cynthia and Debra can lead us find the perfect churros and chocolate cafe for a quick bite.

Debra wanders off and Cynthia cruises through the Via Loreto artisan market — gets a nice set of silver earrings — while David, as Lou Marcelle narrates in the opening scene of Casablanca, knows he must patiently “wait … and wait … and wait.”

The three of us meet for another evening of rooftop cocktails at the Selina Hotel — perhaps the highest bar in town where we separately suck down a two-wine sangria, mojito sagrade and a patron margarita — and an evening stroll through the centro jardim benches where love is in the air on our way to another of Debra’s favorite restaurants, Los Milagros, for some bebidas, comidas, and entradas while a three-piece instrumental band headlined by an animated Lindsay Stirling-quality electric violinist wafts waveforms of classics from Buffet to Page, and love is in the air.