April 23 Glasgow

Our last day in Glasgow, a city that easily opens itself in little moments and grand displays to strangers and offers its history and ongoing reformation to strangers like ourselves, we wake and eat a brunch of eggs benedict and scones. Life is tough but we manage.

Then, we take tube and bus to the Necropolis. Yes, another cemetery, but this one, unlike Highgate, is 37 acres without a tree or shrub. Its monuments are its trees. They tower to the east over St. Mungo’s (Glasgow) Cathedral and the principal “towers” — to Knox, George Rick and Duncan Macfarlan, among others — do, indeed, tower over all other memorials, mausoleums, and stones on descending fields of glory.

The cathedral, originally Catholic but, duuuhhhhh, not after John Knox gotta holda spiritual direction, is quite impressive, especially the crypt, where, supposedly, St. Mungo, who arrove here in 617 or so, is buried along with some German-made stain glass windows that were brilliant but did not survive the test of time so only three are left.

We do notice a nice set of new stained glass windows (1951) paid for by the 14 incorporated trades union of Glasgow that depicts several scenes of … trades, like skinners and glovers and maltment, among others.

We cross a small square in front of the cathedral to St. Mungo’s Museum of Religious Life, which is small but surprisingly affecting. It extols a tolerance and acceptance of ALL religions and cultures and explains this acceptance in signs with direct, simple, meaningful, heartfelt words, while showing art and artifacts from different times and religions to bolster its themes of acceptance and diversity. The photo is of the Derry car bomb, I think in ‘72 … the one that U2 sings titles “Raised by Wolves” that David thinks is loud but REALLY good: One of the better-ever protest songs.

We bus from the museum to Paesano, an artisan pizza place that specializes in Neapolitan crusts as thin as parchment with toppings like yellow tom tomatoes with salciccia, and Negronis are the house cocktail. David is gruntled.

Home. Sleep. Getting a car to go to Skye domani.



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