September 20/21 Aix-en-Provence

We had two full days in Aix before leaving the home exchange house and heading our for the Rhône. Since we would be on the road eating out from then on, we decided to eat at “home” for the next two nights. We also needed to clean some clothes. So, the 20th was a day to do laundry, shop and cook. Valerie and I planned two days of menus and the related shopping list. We were planning chicken salad for one night and a rotisserie meat with roasted vegetables another night. Last week we had seen a rotisserie shop that did not just have chicken. There was lamb, veal and others. We arrived about 12-12:30 and there were only a few chickens left. We asked if there was another such store and were directed to a market stand that was amazing. We got barbequed spare ribs and mini potatoes at gratin. And they were great. Across the market was a highly rated butcher (the awards were in a display case). We bought chicken breasts for the chicken salad plus ham and sides.

David was having a hard time trying to load his photos from the haute route hike to the Google docs folder set up by the guide. He took off for the Apple store to see if he could get help – no luck. But, knowing that he had been making his frustration a little too offensive to others, he went to the red box store for a fabulous dessert for dinner. There are 2 premier pastry shops in Aix. One uses red boxes and the other purple. When we had dinner at D’Arnajon Bernadette bought 2 cakes from the red box store (the purple box store was closed for vacation). We loved their cakes. So, David was redeemed by the chestnut cake!

If in Aix, do not miss it!!

On our last day, David and I headed off to the Musee Granet. Granet was a painter and a collector. On his death he left everything in his possession to Aix including his own works and those of others he had acquired. The museum also hosts a broader collection of paintings and ancient artifacts. The cost of entry to this museum includes an extra ticket for Grantet XXe Collection Jean Planque.

Planque was the curator for a museum in Germany and developed friendships with artists of his time. He left it here. The venue is an old chapel which makes a wonderful space for the art. We first thought of musee d’Orsay for the successful conversion of a venue into an art space. David particularly loved the 5 Giacometti in the Granet and I particularly enjoyed the Dubuffet in the Planque. Although there was also some wonderful Picasso pieces.

I grabbed a sandwich at a bakery and we sat on a bench on Cours Mirabeau to people watch. I had a 2:00 appointment for a pedicure. Valerie met me at the nail salon where we experienced a different process than in the DC area. Many things better than usual, some things not as satisfactory. It cost more.

Back home we made some simple syrup and David made French 75’s. So far we have not found bartenders familiar with this cocktail. Aperol spritz and gin and tonic seem to be the thing. Occasionally negronis are on the menu. We still had some fabulous mushroom/truffle tapenade for appetizers along with toasted baguette. Then on to dinner of the chicken salad, greens, avocado, carrot salad, celery root salad, olives, tomatoes and sparkling Vouvray.

We will miss the wonderful terrace at this place and quiet dinners there.



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