We finally discover why Daintree is called a rain forest. Pluvial does not describe today’s weather. “Torrential” is too tame. We pack in a lull between heavenly cascades and leave our lodge in pouring rain, thankful that we had sunny days when we needed them. We drive to the ferry and thankfully do not have to wait to cross. On the other side, a ways down the road, we see our seven hundredth unexpected but startlingly beautiful and simple tableau: a green field of black angus dotted with Snow White herons.

We intended to see Mossman Gorge but the weather meant no visibility, so we push on to Port Douglas for brunch … another wonderful meal in this foodie town where we’re able to receive and send emails for the first time in four days (not counting the brief access while zip lining).

Since we skipped Mossman Gorge we have an extra hour or two to fill. David wants to go to a place called Reef Teach in Cairns where we could learn more about the fish and corals in the Great Barrier Reef. We find it closed and confab with our guide book for other options. It says the Cairns Regional Gallery is worth a shot. This turns out to be a monumental understatement. Three thought-provoking and beautiful exhibits:

First: Isabel and Alfredo Aquilizan’s project “Another Country: Passage.” Kids and adults build paper boats as interpretations of their journey to where they or their parents have “landed” and climb a ladder to a platform of slats under the ceiling of a large room. The brown paper boats are placed on the slats, which seem like waves whether you stand under them or look at them from above, on the platform. Many people have written messages on their boats, which are all different shapes and sizes.

Second: Artist Del Kathryn Barton was asked in 2010 by the publishing house Art & Australia to re-interpret a classic fairy tale of her choice. She chose Oscar Wilde’s “The Nightingale and the Rose.” We will not describe the drawings, paintings and artifacts that interpret her vision. Hopefully Cynthia will post a photo or two.

Third: Fred Williams (1927-1982) two series of landscape paintings of Australia after he flew in a helicopter over Weipa: The Weipa series and the Bushfire series. Again, can’t describe. Photos must suffice.

We take the car to Apex, adding 453 kilometers to our total road travel, and are whisked to the airport wherein we catch a plane back to Melbourne. David Williams picks us up and drives us to his and Helen Stagoll’s place in Alphington (partners for 20-plus years). Their place is in a nice suburb of Melbourne that we can’t see because it’s totally dark at ten at night.

We have G&Ts, chat and fall heavily asleep.

Another day of travel in Oz.